Thursday, May 14, 2009

Deep Creek - First Time Out!

Last Sunday (5/10/09) we made our first trip of the season out to Deep Creek. We went with every expectation of climbing at The Pit, but decided to go down to the Main Wall to see how high the water was. (That and Jared had never been to Deep Creek so we wanted to give him the full tour.) When we got down there we decided that The Roach (11a) would be too fun to pass up so we rigged a stick clip with a conveniently placed stick:

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Then we made a nice anchor to the dog bolt to prevent the climber from dragging their ass through the water and to prevent the belayer from getting dragged into the water in the event of a whipper (or in my case in the event of the climber sitting down to rest.)

Me belaying Matt:
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Matt on his first attempt at the Roach, he did pretty well for never having worked it before:
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Andrew had a go at it too, he made some progress over where he was last year, I think he made it through the crux and then ran out of juice:
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"Belay Hammock" Just another example of things that you should never do while belaying.
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Andrew powering through the crux into the second flaky bit:
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Matt:
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A slight cleaning mishap, I'm not entirely sure what this clusterf*ck is. Draws hooked into draws into draws. (Check out Matt's awesome new rope, Mammut Tusk, 9.8, it wont be yellow for long, haha.)
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Matt and Andrew lounging around waiting to see if Bill was going to kill himself doing a really big swing.
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Bill and I trying to plot a method to reduce the risk of him falling before getting high enough to swing.
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Going up the stupid 10 on the right side of the pit:
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Weeeee!!!
Bill swinging while Matt, Jared, Alicia and Brian watch:
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Tuesday, May 12, 2009

Q'Emlin Park

For once the planets aligned and the weather cooperated and we got a nice weekend of climbing in with lots of available partners. It has been a rare occurrence lately that I hope continues for the duration of the summer. Jared drove over from the west side for a couple of graduation parties some climbing (unfortunately he dislocated his shoulder within minutes of getting into town). Despite his injury he did a little light climbing and kept us company all weekend.

Getting up Saturday and feeling nice and 'fresh' from a night of beer and nachos and staying up late BS-ing over at Jesse's we headed out to Post for some fun sport.

Andrew picked the first route, I don't remember the name, it was a couple to the north-west of Fearless Leader.
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Next I followed, I'm not sure of the route rating, maybe a 5.9, it was a fun warm up:
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Since we were right there we decided to do the route right next to it, Andrew led it, I TR'ed it because I still haven't figured out how to do the first few moves.
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Serious Concentration:
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The Petzl Nomad is one sexy rope...
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Jared attempting Fearless Leader(11c)....he decided against doing it due to his shoulder injury though. Another big thanks to him for being the belay monkey all weekend.
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I'm kind of glad Andrew was belaying, it's never fun to have someone fall (or let go intentionally in this case) and swing into you
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Andrew's rippling back muscles:
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Another example of questionable belay technique...I may have to create a whole blog post dedicated to it.
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A moment of reflection (in Jared's aviators) Jared is belaying Andrew down in upper fifth canyon:
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Some people are just attracted to shiny things, we can't help it!
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Jared on crack:
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Still more examples of questionable belay technique. I bet this made Andrew feel safe and secure while attempting a clean lead of Dolly Parton:
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Climbing; A still life:
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Jared (?) on Dolly:
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Jesse came and joined us after he got off work and he hopped on Dolly as well:
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Andrew on his nemesis, Dolly Parton:
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Something down in Lower Fifth, I really should be writting down route names!
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Stretcccchhhhh:
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And finally some nice HDR'ed Arrow Leaf Balsam Root flowers for you, see, sometimes I shoot stuff other than climbers!
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All in all, Post Falls was fun, as were the parties later that night...I'll be posting up the photos from Deep Creek the next day shortly!


Thursday, May 7, 2009