Thursday, June 25, 2009

Climbing at Banks Lake

Welcome to the blog about a cold wet and windy clusterf*ck. Honestly it wasn't THAT bad, but it was a poor consolation for the trip to Utah that we had planned upon being on.
The weather on Saturday was perfect, not too hot or too cool and pretty calm:
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We headed out to Jones Bay and found that all of the camping was either sub-par or full. After a long wait someone vacated their spot and we snagged it. Once camp was set up we headed out to climb some rotten granite.

The Inland Northwest Rock Climbs Guide is a little difficult to interpret since it is a few years old and a lot of bolt lines have gone up and a lot of bolt lines have been chopped. We settled on something that we couldn't find in the book. It felt like a 5.9, but after staring at the book for a while we determined it was supposed to be a 10c:
Gotta love that wide angle lens:
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For most of the weekend Matt was the leader, Andrew the follower and I came up last and cleaned, apparently I should have been leading more pitches since the slabby crimpy sharp granite is more 'my style':
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On the top of the 2nd pitch, there was a 3rd pitch but it looked pretty brutal and we weren't feeling that adventurous. Turns out is was a 12c (If I remember correctly).
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Andrew striking a pose:
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That night it got a bit breezy so we made a fire, rearranged some picnic tables and sat down to drink some coronas and eat some steaks. It was a reallllly good meal.
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The next morning was a bit overcast. The boys got up, made some sandwiches, went back to bed, got up again, we made pancakes and then yet again they passed out, this is the definition of 'motivation' right here:
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Next up we went to Northrup Canyon and climbed a really strange slabby ramp thing with a ton of underclings, I left my camera in the bag because we were on a precarious ledge and I wasn't sure I wanted to drop it trying to get a shot of someone's ass.

Andrew then took charge and was determined to find a route in the book called "Red Roof Inn" on Roadside Rock. After a retarded approach we found it...well, we could see it anyway. We weren't quite willing to backtrack to get to it so we settled for another 10c up high on the terrace. I think it was called Red Violin?
Andrew took first lead and had a rough time so Matt finished it out for him, by this point I was freezing so I decided to TR it, I wish I would have led it, it was super fun :
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After this we went back to camp we sat around and waited for the rain to start. Apparently any card game can be adapted to be a drinking game, including War. It's a good way to get trashed before dinner. My tent still smells like Corona.

Our Sweet Ride:
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Matt Belaying on the last climb of the trip:
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After this it started raining so I put the camera away and we did another pitch in the wind and rain...after several small delays that amounted to me stuck on a ledge for a half hour and poor Andrew stuck in a hanging belay in a sleeveless t-shirt for just as long untangling ropes we finally finished it out, rappelled off and got the heck out of there.








Thursday, June 18, 2009

Deep Creek - Main Wall

We've been braving the mosquitoes (they are so thick they block out the sun) and the stagnant water and the risk of unintentionally going swimming in the creek for a couple of days a week for the last month or so. Finally the water is receding (although the mosquitoes aren't going anywhere) and the bottoms of all of the routes that we've been working via the stick clip - swing - shimmy up the rope method are finally becoming accessible.

Reena on The Roach (11a) - I know, I'm getting sick of seeing the Roach too, maybe once it's dry down there we'll try something else!
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Andrew working on his attempt at it:
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Jake doing his first lead attempt of "Overhangus Interuptus" 11c.
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Matt past the crux on the slabby part (the no-hands resting after the side pull pinch is my favorite part, haha)
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Reena giving it a go on TR, it's so pumpy at the bottom.
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Matt clipping off of the crimp on the Roach before the crux:
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I didn't catch this guy's name, but he had a cool dog named Apollo and has apparently seen the blog before which is kind of cool. Here he is on Red Hair:
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The Roach, different angle:
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Serra warming up on Overhangus:
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Sunday, June 14, 2009

Leavenworth II - Rockfest

I liked Leavenworth so much that we decided to go back the next week for Rockfest
put on by Feathered Friends. It was a smaller group on a shorter trip but it was still pretty fun. Unfortunately I hurt my foot the day before we went so I was a bit more passive and ended up shooting mostly.

The first night we rolled into town, met some friends at the Safeway and then went and set up camp on the big rock across the Icicle from Bridgewater campground. As soon and our sleep spots were lined up we headed up to the Forestland Boulders for some night bouldering with the gas lantern and some coronas.

Matt on the Arete on the Shield boulder:
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Phil working on the same boulder:
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The next morning we headed up to Mad Meadows for a rematch with "No Pain, No Grain" (V5). It didn't got and I was so sick of shooting it (see previous blogs) that I took a crash pad nap while they played on it for a bit. It's just no fun to start that it's impossible to get stoked for.

Kara playing on the hueco problem:
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Phil totally climbs for facebook. ;)
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Noah working on a low-ball problem:
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Artsy:
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Noah on Crimpsqueak or Pimpsqueak or something. I'm not sure which was which.
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Crashpad shenanigans prior to trying (and failing) to find the Pretty Boulders
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Matt on a V3 at Upper Forestland
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Noah on "The Physical"
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Same problem, different Peller:
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There are a lot of shots of Noah this trip because he was definitely climbing hard, some of us were far less motivated this time around:
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Some of the local fauna:
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High feet!
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Noah on a V7:
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That's the majority of the shots from last weekend, on deck I've got bouldering at McLellan and some sweet Deep Creek action.




Thursday, June 11, 2009

Team Epic Fail

We spent a lot of time IN Deep Creek on this trip. Matt, Jake and Rena all ended up completely soaked, the rest of us ended up at least a tad bit damp.

Rena on the Roach (11a) (She had an amazing first burn at it!)
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Andrew on the crux of The Roach:
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Holy crap, it's a photo of me climbing!
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Clipping:
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An ode to Kara:
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Matt on his project, "Overhangus Interuptus" 11c. It's going to go soon, he got it with only one rest last time:
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Jake...being Jake I guess.
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How to avoid ending up in the creek:
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Me getting in a little TR action on Over Hangus (Matt ALMOST dumped me in the creek on TR)
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Jake climbing:
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Rena being nearly torn in half while Andrew was trying to dyno past the crux on the Roach.
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Tuesday, June 9, 2009

Oops! Missed one!

I just realized that I had edited photos from an outing in early May and hadn't posted anything about it! I've got a head full of rocks lately. These were supposed to go up a few days before the Leavenworth trip.

My pretty new rope that I bought on an impulse from the Mountain Gear Warehouse sale:
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Andrew warming up on Dolly Parton (Is anyone else sick of seeing pictures of Dolly yet?)
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Who knows what's going on here, I'm probably yelling at Matt to stop taking pictures of me:
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Matt at the top of Dolly:
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Contrastyness (Yes, that is really a word, I swear!)
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Brian Belaying in pretty light:
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Another shot of the pretty new bi-color rope:
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Perfect belay technique:
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This is actually when I hurt my ankle about a month ago...It's feeling much better now though, almost 100% The Young and The Pampered (10a)
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Brian on something on the Garden Wall:
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Another sweet still life climbing photo with a little "Outdoor Ridiculousness"
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Brian on Fearless Leader:
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Brian on the top hold on Fearless Leader:
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Artsy or just crappy focus...who knows...
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Now that that's up I can hopefully finish up the rest of Leavenworth, Deepcreek and Leavenworth 2 and get them posted!